Affiliate Marketing: I review products independently; Although, I may earn affiliate commission, at no extra cost to you, from some links in this website. All the products are recommended based on their quality, performance and reputation, regardless of any affiliate relationship.
PHAs offer a unique blend of exfoliation and hydration that caters to all skin types, especially sensitive ones. With an increase of research highlighting its benefits, it’s time to dive into the world of polyhydroxy acids and discover why they might just become your new skincare best friend.
Polyhydroxy acids, including gluconolactone, galactose and lactobionic acid, are gentle exfoliants that work on the skin’s surface. Unlike AHAs, which are derived from fruits and can be quite potent, these acids have larger molecular structures, meaning they penetrate the skin more slowly. They provide effective exfoliation without the redness or stinging that can accompany stronger acid.
The Science Behind the Shine
At first glance, one might wonder, "What exactly are polyhydroxy acids?" Well, think of them as the sophisticated, slightly older cousins of AHAs and BHAs. PHAs are water-soluble compounds derived from milk sugars or fruits, boasting a larger molecular structure. This larger size means they penetrate the skin more slowly, making them less irritating—ideal for those with sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea.
Recommended product
When applied, PHAs primarily work as exfoliants, gently sloughing away dead skin cells. This process reveals the fresh, dewy skin underneath, much like peeling an orange to discover the juicy fruit inside. What's more, PHAs possess humectant properties, meaning they draw moisture into the skin, providing hydration and leaving the complexion plump and youthful. They also have antioxidant properties, helping to combat environmental damage.
Hydration Heroes
One of the features of PHAs is their ability to hydrate the skin while exfoliating. They are humectants, meaning they attract moisture to the skin. PHAs not only help to remove dead skin cells but also assist in retaining water, resulting in a plump and dewy complexion. This dual action is a game-changer, particularly for those who struggle with dryness or flakiness. It’s a skincare ingredient that exfoliates gently while also giving your skin a refreshing drink—now that’s the kind of multitasking we can all appreciate!
Recommended product
Antioxidant Properties
In addition to their exfoliating and hydrating benefits, polyhydroxy acids are also celebrated for their antioxidant properties. They help combat oxidative stress, which is a significant contributor to skin aging. The antioxidant effects of PHAs can aid in protecting the skin from environmental damage, including pollution and UV rays.
Recommended product
Suitable for All Skin Types
One of the most appealing aspects of PHAs is their versatility. While many acids can be harsh on sensitive skin, PHAs can be introduced without the fear of irritation. This makes them an ideal option for individuals with conditions like rosacea or eczema, who often need to tread carefully when it comes to exfoliation.
Benefits
Gentle Exfoliation: PHAs are less abrasive than their AHA and BHA counterparts. They offer an effective exfoliation without the risk of redness or irritation.
Hydration Heroes: Their humectant properties ensure that while they exfoliate, they also hydrate.
Suitable for All: Even the most sensitive skin types can enjoy the benefits of PHAs without fear of irritation. They are particularly beneficial for mature skin, which may struggle with dryness.
Antioxidant Armor: PHAs help in neutralizing free radicals, which can lead to premature aging, thus contributing to a more youthful appearance.
Recommended product
Disadvantages
Slower Results: The gentleness of PHAs can also mean that results may take longer to manifest compared to the more aggressive AHAs and BHAs.
Cost Factor: Depending on the formulation, products containing PHAs can sometimes be pricier than their AHA and BHA counterparts.
Limited Availability: While AHAs and BHAs are widely recognized, PHAs are still gaining traction. This means fewer options on the shelf for the discerning skincare enthusiast.
Recommended product
Considerations
Always do a patch test, and follow religiously the instructions of the product.
Combining PHAs with other active ingredients or acids can bring the most results. However, they should not be mixed with ph-responsive ingredients.
Overuse can cause skin irritation.
How to Incorporate PHAs into Your Routine
Integrating polyhydroxy acids into your skincare regimen is as simple as finding the right product. They are available in various formulations, including cleansers, toners, serums, and moisturizers. For beginners, a PHA-based cleanser can be a good way to start without overwhelming your skin.
The Final Verdict: To PHA or Not to PHA?
Polyhydroxy acids represent a great addition to the skincare arsenal. Their gentle exfoliating properties, coupled with hydration and antioxidant benefits, make them a fantastic choice for those with sensitive skin or anyone looking to maintain a healthy glow without the risk of irritation. While they may not deliver immediate results as their acidic siblings, their unique advantages warrant consideration.
Sources
National Library of Medicine. February 2004. The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
National Library of Medicine. November 24, 2010. Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
Edison BL, Green BA, Wildnauer RH, Sigler ML. February 1, 2004. A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
Hailey Konisky BS, Whitney P. Bowe MD, Pada Yang BS, Kseniya Kobets MD, MHS. May 28, 2024. The clinical efficacy and tolerability of a novel triple acid exfoliating blend for reducing signs of photoaging in sensitive skin
Dr. Alpana Mohta Ranka. November 24, 2023. Lactobionic Acid for Skin: Benefits, Uses, and Comparisons with other Hydroxy Acids
Wulaningsih, Titiek. (2023). Gluconolactone in Cosmetic (Review Article). KESANS : International Journal of Health and Science. 2. 730-745.10.54543/kesans.v2i9.191.
National Library of Medicine. February 2004. The polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone protects against ultraviolet radiation in an in vitro model of cutaneous photoaging
National Library of Medicine. January 2012. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents
Comments