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Acids have emerged as a revolutionary tool to achieve healthier and youthful skin. They are my best-loved, treasured, preferred skin product, because of how noticeable their results are. These skincare acids, often misunderstood due to their name, offer a wide range of benefits for various skin concerns.
Understanding Skincare Acids
A. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs):
AHAs are water-soluble carboxylic acids. They improve the cell turnover process by loosening up the goop that binds skin cells together. As a consequence, the old skin cells are shed and replaced by younger healthy cells.
Derived from natural sources such as sugar canes, fruits, and milk.
Commonly used AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and mandelic acid.
AHAs work by exfoliating the outer layer of the skin, promoting cell turnover.
Best for: Anti-aging, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin texture and tone.
B. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA):
BHA is an oil-soluble carboxylic acid. It removes dead skin cells that have clung to the skin surface or are stuck in it, by dissolving the sebum (Excess sebum can lead to acne) and clearing out the pores. Subsequently, it reduces the appearance of dull skin, blackheads and skin blemishes.
Derived mainly from plants, tree bark, fruit, and some dairy products.
Mainly known as salicylic acid.
BHA Works by penetrating the pores and exfoliating the inside of the follicles.
Best for: Unclogging and cleaning pores, treating existing acne, reducing inflammation.
C. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs):
PHAs acids are chemical exfoliants that work on the skin surface removing dead skin cells, and evening skin tone and texture. They are similar to AHAs and BHAs, but their molecules are much larger and can not penetrated the skin as deep as other acids.
Derived mainly from fruit juices, honey, wine, and fermentation of glucose.
Commonly used PHAs: Gluconolactone acid, galactose acid, and lactobionic acid.
PHAs work by providing gentle exfoliation and hydration to the skin.
Best for: Sensitive skin types, fighting glycation (Sugar permanently attached to the collagen of the skin), resurfacing, balancing.
D. Retinoids:
Retinoids are chemical compounds that derived from vitamin A or are related to it. They increase the production of collagen, production of new blood vessels, and regulate the cell apoptosis differentiation, and proliferation.
Derived from vitamin A.
Commonly used retinoids: Retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, tretinoin, adapalene, tazarotene, trifarotene, alitretinoin, bexarotene.
Promote cell turnover and collagen production.
Best for: reducing fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, treating acne, treating skin conditions like psoriasis, unclogging pores, even skin tone.
From exfoliation to acne treatment and anti-aging properties, these acids have proven their efficacy. However, it is important to remember that skincare acids should be used with caution, as they can cause skin sensitivity and over-exfoliation if not used properly. By understanding the different types of skincare acids and their potential advantages and disadvantages, individuals can make informed decisions when incorporating acids into their skincare routines.
Sources
U.S Food & Drug Administration. (n.d). Alpha Hydroxy Acids
U.S Food & Drug Administration. (n.d). Beta Hydroxy Acids
National Library of Medicine. February, 2004. The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
American Osteopathic College of Dermatology. (n.d). Retinoids, topical
American Academy of Dermatology Association. (n.d). Retinoid or Retinol?
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