Jun 115 min read

What Exactly are Peptides and What is The Hype About Them? + List of Popular Peptides

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Peptides have garnered significant attention and are considered one of the most powerful tools due to their visible benefits in skincare. But what exactly are they? They are short chains of amino acids (usually between 2-50), linked by covalent bonds (chemical bond formed between atoms sharing electrons), and formed by a chemical reaction in which two molecules combine to form a single molecule. So, What are Peptides?? They are short, tiny, organic chains of molecules formed by two or more amino acids that constitute the main components of proteins. They are divided in two groups:

Endogenous peptides: Which are naturally produced in the central nervous system and glands.

Exogenous peptides: Which are brought into the body through outside sources, and are produced by enzymatic hydrolysis of protein or by biosynthesis.

Types of Peptides

Carrier: They deliver trace minerals, like cooper and magnesium, to certain enzymes that help to promote elastin and collagen growth.

Neurotransmitter-inhibitor: They block the release of acetylcholine which helps contracts muscles, creating a temporary "muscle relaxion effect".

Signal: They" trick" and activate different skin cells like fibroblasts, and cause the trigger of wound healing mechanisms, which stimulates collagen synthesis and extracellular matrix protein production.

Enzyme-inhibitor: They slow down the enzymes that break down collagen over time, which helps the skin to maintain its firmness and elasticity.

Peptides found in skincare products

These are the most popular peptides used in skincare products, along with the number of amino acids (AA) in their formulation:

Name	Use	Amino Acids #
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl)	Collagen Booster	5 AA
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline® peptide)	Endogenous Repair - Muscle Relaxer - Botox-like	6 AA
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1	Collagen Booster	3 AA
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7	Skin Restoration	4 AA
Copper Tripeptide-1	Collagen Synthesis	3 AA
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide	Skin Conditioning	3 AA Varies*
Hexapeptide-9	Synthetic Collagen	6 AA
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 (Matrixyl Synthe'6)	Anti-aging	3 AA
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12	Skin Restoration	6 AA
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5	Synthetic Collagen	3 AA
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine	Synthetic Signal	4 AA
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3	Skin Conditioning - Muscle Relaxer	4 AA

Any skincare product containing a peptide with five amino acids or less will be more effective in reaching the skin. It is important to note that different skincare products may contain different concentrations of these peptides, so it's always a good idea to check the ingredient list and consult with a skincare professional for personalized advice. *

Benefits of Peptides in Skincare

Enhanced collagen production and elastin: Collagen, responsible for skin elasticity and firmness, tends to decline with age. Dermal fibroblasts release collagen I, proteoglycans and elastin when there is sufficient mechanical tension on them. But when that tension decreases, the production of extracellular matrix proteins also dwindles, and there is a multiplication of enzymes that degrade the matrix. Peptides act as couriers in between cells that signals them to increase the production of collagen and elastin. By tricking the cells into "thinking" the skin has been damaged, peptides trigger wound healing mechanisms that stimulate collagen production.

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Skin barrier: The outermost layer of the skin, called the stratum corneum, acts as a protective barrier that helps retain moisture, prevent water loss, and protect the skin from external factors such as bacteria, irritants, and UV radiation. It is composed of dead skin cells, lipids and natural moisturizing factors, which work together to maintain the skin's integrity and function. One of the main ways peptides aid in repairing the skin's barrier is by stimulating collagen synthesis, thereby improving the strength and resilience of the skin. They can also stimulate cellular activity and cell turnover, and promote the synthesis of essential components such as ceramides, which are lipids that help to form a protective skin barrier. Consequentially, peptides can help strengthen the skin's defense against UV rays, pollution and other environmental stressors.

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Moisturization and hydration: Peptides, such as oligopeptides, can enhance the skin's ability to retain moisture. By promoting the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, a natural hydrating agent, peptides contribute to improved skin hydration and plumpness.

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Antioxidants: Under normal circumstances, there is a natural balance inside the body between antioxidants and oxidants. But due to internal or external factors, this equilibrium can be interrupted leading to oxidative stress, which is the imbalance of free radicals and antioxidants, that can cause damage to cellular components, including DNA, proteins, and lipids. Some peptides have inherent antioxidant properties and work by neutralizing free radicals, and protecting the skin from environmental stressors. Furthermore, they can boost the skin's natural defense mechanisms by stimulating the production of antioxidants within the skin cells. They can also enhance the efficacy of other antioxidants when applied together; for example, peptides combined with vitamins C and E can increase their stability and bioavailability, allowing them to exercise their properties more effectively.

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Antimicrobial: Peptides have a wide range of antimicrobial properties and work against viruses, fungi, Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, and parasites. Many peptides have a unique structure that allows them to interact with microbial membranes, and alter their integrity by inserting themselves into the lipid layer, which leads to the dead of the microorganism. Additionally, peptides can target microbial DNA and RNA, disrupting the genetic material of the organism, and effectively interfere with their replication process, halting their growth and reproduction. Furthermore, they can inhibit the activity of specific microbial enzymes that are essential for the survival and growth of the microorganism, and they can enhance the production and activity of immune cells, stimulating the immune system's response to microbial infections.

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One of the remarkable features of antimicrobial peptides is their ability to selectively target microorganisms while sparing human cells; they can recognize and bind to microbial membranes, leading to their destruction, without harming the host cells.

Disadvantages of Peptides in Skincare

While peptides offer promising benefits, it is essential to consider potential drawbacks.

Limited Penetration: One challenge associated with peptides is their ability to penetrate deeper than the stratum corneum. Due to their relatively large molecular size, peptides might struggle to reach deeper skin layers where their effects would be most beneficial. An easy way to know if a peptide will penetrate the skin is to look at the number of amino acids in its chain: Any skincare product containing a peptide with five amino acids or less will be more effective in reaching the skin, while anything higher than five amino acids will have a hard time to enter the skin. However, all the medical, scientific progresses, research, and advancements in peptide technology and formulation techniques will likely enhance their efficacy.

Stability Concerns: Peptides are susceptible to degradation when exposed to certain conditions, such as excessive heat, light, or pH fluctuations. Consequently, maintaining the stability of peptide-based skincare products can be challenging. Innovative packaging and formulation techniques are necessary to ensure the preservation of peptide efficacy.

Skin irritation: While peptides are generally considered safe and well tolerate, they can cause itching, burning, redness, rashes, burning and soreness. Moreover, higher concentrations of product, impurities or contaminants, and skin sensitivity can increase the chances of skin irritation and can trigger allergic reactions. In addition, the over use of peptides and their combination with other products can act as potential irritants or allergens.

Peptides have emerged as a fascinating area of study in skincare, offering a range of potential benefits. Their ability to stimulate collagen production, combat signs of aging, and improve moisturization has captivated the attention of both skincare enthusiasts and industry professionals. Nevertheless, challenges like limited penetration and stability must be addressed to harness the full potential of peptides in skincare formulations. Do not forget to always consult with a skincare professional or dermatologist.

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